ok now I need help

[hooker]

I've tried that too, from what I have been reading some folks are experiencing similar issues with other receivers. I should be getting 13V on vertical and 18V horizontal. My problem is more than likely hardware issue, I just need to know what controls the voltage and if the part can be replaced.

Thanks

Originally Posted by just_angel

try loading the factory file...do that at least three times then load the new file


after setting up your sats do a power scan ...it may bring back your signal

[fugley]

Originally Posted by hooker

I've tried that too, from what I have been reading some folks are experiencing similar issues with other receivers. I should be getting 13V on vertical and 18V horizontal. My problem is more than likely hardware issue, I just need to know what controls the voltage and if the part can be replaced.

Thanks

The part is a ST-Microelectronics LNBP8 you can google just `lnbp8` and get the data sheet, This part can be ordered but you will have to work at finding a place that will sell small quantities. This chip has seven pins and a soldered tab soldered directly to the PC board it is marked on the board as U16. The board does not provide much in the way of a heat sink so the chip normally runs pretty hot and is a bit of a weak point because of this. When properly cooled these things can handle almost anything including a direct short to ground but if you do replace it I would recommend also adding a proper heat-sink and it should be bullet proof. good luck guy.

[ttkm]

hey i also have similar prob wit 700 i setup my with old bird re show sig ok 110 119 re hook up 700 said no sig 119 110 ok scan i see all try this also wats quality reading

[fugley]

Originally Posted by hooker

I've tried that too, from what I have been reading some folks are experiencing similar issues with other receivers. I should be getting 13V on vertical and 18V horizontal. My problem is more than likely hardware issue, I just need to know what controls the voltage and if the part can be replaced.

Thanks

If you would like to test the lnbp8 IC for sure you can check these pins in this order

pin 2 should be ~22 vdc if not you have a power supply prob
Pin 1 should be ~20 vdc if it is more then 2 volts lower then 20 and pin 2 is ok then R184 the large 2 1/2 watt resistor is open or loaded by a defective lnbp8 a 12 to 15 ohm should be a good replacement see ST data sheet page 5 note (1) if both of those check ok then pin 4 should be zero = gnd. pin 5 should switch from ~3 vdc = H to ~0 vdc = V as you change channels. if not then you have a problem coming from pin193 of the main sti 5518 processor and would by the symptoms that you describe most likely be a corrupted base (full) "flash" and could require an actual jtag to properly recover it (think of it as bios flash on your desktop) where a serial flash is like loading the operating system (windows??lol) if your bios is screwed then your windows will not work right, if you get the drift?. Now if this is switching ok then check that pin 6 is at ~3 vdc always(chip enable) pin 7 should be always at ~ 0 vdc now the defining test if all of those were good you can check pin 3 for ~17.3 vdc = H & ~12.5 vdc = V as you change channels, if not then yes very likely the lnbp8 is defective. I hope this helps. Sorry about the crappy pic but best I could do in a hurry. good luck. oh as for that wire don't even think about it that was someone elses project and better not discussed here and no it didn't go to a switch

[hooker]

Thanks folks, I will be tring all suggestions this week-end. I'll let you know.

Thanks

Originally Posted by fugley

If you would like to test the lnbp8 IC for sure you can check these pins in this order

pin 2 should be ~22 vdc if not you have a power supply prob
Pin 1 should be ~20 vdc if it is more then 2 volts lower then 20 and pin 2 is ok then R184 the large 2 1/2 watt resistor is open or loaded by a defective lnbp8 a 12 to 15 ohm should be a good replacement see ST data sheet page 5 note (1) if both of those check ok then pin 4 should be zero = gnd. pin 5 should switch from ~3 vdc = H to ~0 vdc = V as you change channels. if not then you have a problem coming from pin193 of the main sti 5518 processor and would by the symptoms that you describe most likely be a corrupted base (full) "flash" and could require an actual jtag to properly recover it (think of it as bios flash on your desktop) where a serial flash is like loading the operating system (windows??lol) if your bios is screwed then your windows will not work right, if you get the drift?. Now if this is switching ok then check that pin 6 is at ~3 vdc always(chip enable) pin 7 should be always at ~ 0 vdc now the defining test if all of those were good you can check pin 3 for ~17.3 vdc = H & ~12.5 vdc = V as you change channels, if not then yes very likely the lnbp8 is defective. I hope this helps. Sorry about the crappy pic but best I could do in a hurry. good luck. oh as for that wire don't even think about it that was someone elses project and better not discussed here and no it didn't go to a switch

[fugley]

sallie ann can answer all your questions

[hooker]

You the man ... I jtaged than tested lnbp8 IC as per your instructions and found pin 1 to be my problem. I replaced R184 with a 15 OHM resister and all is good. Thank you for your time and patience...

Thank you

Maybe a MOD can change the title of the thread to " No Vertical or Horizontal Signal "...




p

Originally Posted by fugley

If you would like to test the lnbp8 IC for sure you can check these pins in this order

pin 2 should be ~22 vdc if not you have a power supply prob
Pin 1 should be ~20 vdc if it is more then 2 volts lower then 20 and pin 2 is ok then R184 the large 2 1/2 watt resistor is open or loaded by a defective lnbp8 a 12 to 15 ohm should be a good replacement see ST data sheet page 5 note (1) if both of those check ok then pin 4 should be zero = gnd. pin 5 should switch from ~3 vdc = H to ~0 vdc = V as you change channels. if not then you have a problem coming from pin193 of the main sti 5518 processor and would by the symptoms that you describe most likely be a corrupted base (full) "flash" and could require an actual jtag to properly recover it (think of it as bios flash on your desktop) where a serial flash is like loading the operating system (windows??lol) if your bios is screwed then your windows will not work right, if you get the drift?. Now if this is switching ok then check that pin 6 is at ~3 vdc always(chip enable) pin 7 should be always at ~ 0 vdc now the defining test if all of those were good you can check pin 3 for ~17.3 vdc = H & ~12.5 vdc = V as you change channels, if not then yes very likely the lnbp8 is defective. I hope this helps. Sorry about the crappy pic but best I could do in a hurry. good luck. oh as for that wire don't even think about it that was someone elses project and better not discussed here and no it didn't go to a switch

[fugley]

U did good U are THE MAN good JOB xlent. if U can put some kind of heat sink on that thing it will last forever lol.

[hooker]

I will be putting a heat sink this week,, thanks again

Originally Posted by fugley

U did good U are THE MAN good JOB xlent. if U can put some kind of heat sink on that thing it will last forever lol.

[koollj]

Originally Posted by hooker

Does not matter what file I use I’ve tested with newer and 252E, my other ariza 700 works fine with same files. I have had this unit put away for some time when it first started with this problem; I was hoping some info was available as to what part needs to be changed...

Thanks

HELLO ! iM NEW HERE BUT I HAD A SOME WHAT A PROBLEM WHERE I HAD TO REPLACE TWO CAPASITERS BECAUSE I HAD HIGH LEVELS BUT NO QUALITY AND IF THATS IT THEN THE TWO 470 NEED TO BE REPLACED (GREEN HORN OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT)